London gets McQueen back after more than twenty years in Paris, and Mulberry returns with Christopher Kane

The Spring/Summer 2027 week closed on September 21 with two homecomings and a Burberry show built with Celia Birtwell. For a city that has spent a decade losing its big names to Paris, the direction of travel changed.

By Célia Megias·September 21, 2026·2 min read

London Fashion Week closed on Monday, September 21 after five days, and the story of the season was not a debut. It was two returns.

The British Fashion Council's programme counted 47 catwalk shows, 23 presentations, 10 digital activations and 53 evening events. Inside it, two houses that had left the London calendar came back to it.

McQueen comes home

Alexander McQueen showed on the official London schedule for the first time in more than twenty years, after a long run in Paris. Seán McGirr staged the collection at Lincoln's Inn Chapel, and the coverage describes a mix of rave culture, neoclassical references and Savile Row tailoring.

The venue and the tailoring are the point. McQueen's founding story is a London one, built on Savile Row training and on shows that treated the city as a stage. Bringing the house back puts that story back where it started, and it gives Kering a London platform for a brand whose identity is more English than its recent calendar suggested.

Mulberry, with Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane made his debut at Mulberry, which returned to the London runway after nearly a decade. The collection leaned on the house's leather heritage with sharply constructed ready-to-wear.

Kane is a London designer with his own name behind him. Hiring him tells you Mulberry wants to be read as fashion again, not only as a leather-goods business, and a runway slot is how that gets said.

Burberry closes

Burberry closed the week. Daniel Lee worked with the textile designer Celia Birtwell, and hand-painted florals and vines ran across trenches and tailoring. Established names including Erdem, Simone Rocha, Roksanda and Richard Quinn showed alongside NEWGEN and first-time participants such as Francesca Lake, Gui Rosa and Petra Fagerström, and the Indian label Lovebirds joined the official schedule.

What it means for Paris

McQueen's move is felt in Paris too. It is one of the notable absences from the Paris Spring/Summer 2027 calendar that opens on September 28. One house does not reverse a decade in which London's biggest names showed in Paris. It does show that a return is now a credible option for a global brand, and that is something London has not been able to say for some time.

Figures, show details and participants as reported by Outlook Luxe (Sonali Mukherjee, September 22, 2026), with further coverage from Forbes. McQueen's absence from Paris per Daily Front Row and Fashionista.

Paris opens tomorrow: two debuts, the houses coming home, and the week's real tests in their second seasons

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Célia Megias / September 27, 2026 / 2 min

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