Archive
Everything we have published
19 pieces, newest first. Collections, house transitions, results, and the calendar behind them.
Wed
3 pieces- Resale · May 20, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Resale will pass $41 billion this year, growing three times faster than the houses it resells
From $37.95 billion in 2025 to $41.61 billion in 2026, on the way to a projected $60 billion by 2030. Handbags are 40% of it, and 62% of buyers give sustainability as their reason.
- Resale · June 24, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Resale platforms are not competing on inventory. They are competing on proof.
AI-driven verification and blockchain provenance are where the money is going in secondhand luxury, because in a market of unique used objects the only defensible asset is being believed.
- Fashion Weeks · July 29, 2026 · Célia Megias
Paris has 68 shows and two new names to make its case for a calendar under strain
The Spring/Summer 2027 schedule runs September 28 to October 6, with debuts from Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, Valentino and Margiela back, and McQueen gone to London. The season the reset has to start paying for itself.
Tue
2 pieces- Sustainability · February 10, 2026 · Célia Megias
Copenhagen turned twenty and made its rules harder, in a year when everyone else softened theirs
Nineteen documented minimum standards, at least 60% certified, recycled or deadstock materials, virgin fur and wild animal skins banned. Miss them and you are not on the schedule. It is the only sustainability regime in fashion with a real penalty.
- Houses · December 16, 2025 · Célia Megias
Dario Vitale's Versace lasted one collection, and the collection was good
His September debut in Milan was received as a triumph. He left on December 12, ten days after Prada Group closed its acquisition. Reception had nothing to do with it.
Thu
4 pieces- Runway · October 9, 2025 · Nar Cissa
Blazy hung planets in the Grand Palais and got the first standing ovation Chanel has needed in forty years
His debut ready-to-wear was described as the first real break at the house in more than four decades. Whether the Chanel customer wants a break is the question the ovation could not answer.
- Fashion Weeks · March 5, 2026 · Célia Megias
Milan got both of its biggest debuts in the same six days
Demna's first Gucci runway show and Maria Grazia Chiuri's first Fendi collection landed inside one week, February 24 to March 2. A city that had been losing ground got handed the two most-watched shows of the season.
- Fashion Weeks · July 16, 2026 · Célia Megias
New York moved its dates, and that tells you the four fashion weeks are now one calendar
NYFW ran February 11 to 16, London 19 to 23, Milan 24 to March 2, Paris closing on October 6 in September. Four cities, four organizing bodies, no shared authority, and a sequence being managed as a single product anyway.
- Houses · January 22, 2026 · Célia Megias
Eight houses changed designer in eighteen months. Nobody planned that.
Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Celine, Maison Margiela, Fendi, Bottega Veneta. Fifteen debuts in the Spring/Summer 2026 season alone. A map of the largest creative reset in modern luxury, and why it happened all at once.
Sun
1 pieces- Fashion Weeks · October 12, 2025 · Célia Megias
Fifteen debuts in one season, and most of them in Paris in the same week
Spring/Summer 2026 was the most consequential fashion month in decades: Anderson's first Dior womenswear on October 1, Blazy's Chanel days later, and a schedule where almost every marquee slot belonged to someone new.
Mon
6 pieces- Runway · March 2, 2026 · Nar Cissa
La Famiglia was a cast list, not a collection, and that was the point
Demna's first Gucci built each look as a character in the house's family tree, re-proportioned the Bamboo 1947 and put the Horsebit loafer with sheer hosiery. The reviews were warm. The forums were not.
- Business · June 15, 2026 · Mimi Duch
The luxury recovery is real, arriving unevenly, and being reported as one thing
Europe slowing while the US and Asia lift. Two to five percent growth received as good news. A rebound that keeps getting a reality check, and a sector that has quietly redefined what normal looks like.
- Business · July 27, 2026 · Mimi Duch
LVMH's fashion division grew for the first time in seven quarters, by one percent
First-half sales of €38.6 billion, a 3% second quarter, and a fashion and leather goods business still down 5% across the half. Kering posted its first positive quarter in three years. The recovery is real and it is thin.
- Couture · July 13, 2026 · Célia Megias
Thirty houses, two first collections, and a couture week that was mostly about succession
Paris haute couture ran July 6 to 9 with Pierpaolo Piccioli's Balenciaga debut and Duran Lantink's at Jean Paul Gaultier, alongside second outings from Blazy and Anderson. The clothes were sculptural. The subject was handover.
- Sustainability · July 6, 2026 · Célia Megias
New York bans fur from its runways in September, and the ban is not the interesting part
The CFDA rule covers all official runways and calendar-listed shows from the Spring/Summer 2027 season. What matters is the mechanism: fashion weeks have started using schedule access as regulation.
- Business · December 8, 2025 · Mimi Duch
Prada closed on Versace for about €1.25 billion, and now owns the problem it wanted
The acquisition from Capri Holdings completed in early December after signing in April, with a relaunch plan running to 2030. An Italian group buying an Italian house is rarer than it should be.
Fri
3 pieces- Runway · October 3, 2025 · Nar Cissa
Anderson cropped the Bar jacket and cut the New Look to a mini, and the internet split in half
His first Dior womenswear, October 1, got a standing ovation in the room and a genuine fight everywhere else. The most hyped and most polarizing show of the year, which is exactly what a debut should produce.
- Houses · July 24, 2026 · Célia Megias
A results statement credited one designer by name. That is new.
Jonathan Anderson took all of Dior in 2025 and by July 2026 LVMH was attributing part of its first fashion growth in seven quarters to his effect. What it takes to move an €18 billion division, and what the credit actually proves.
- Couture · July 10, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Piccioli brought ruffles and whole looks of feathers to a house built on severity
His first Balenciaga couture, shown in the July week, answered the question everyone had about the appointment: he was not going to imitate what the house had been for the previous decade.