Everything we have published

43 pieces, newest first. Collections, house transitions, results, and the calendar behind them.

2026

38 pieces

Business · October 27, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Kering's third quarter, Gucci sells more to stores and less in its own
Group sales were flat, Gucci fell 6% and the shares lost about a tenth of their value in a day. The problem Kering named is not price or product. It is fewer people walking in.
Business · October 20, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Kering lets two designers go in six days, and asks the next ones to sell what the last ones did not
Anthony Vaccarello leaves Saint Laurent after ten years, Seán McGirr leaves McQueen after three. Neither house has a successor yet, and Kering reports its third quarter on Thursday.
Houses · October 13, 2026 · Célia Megias
A week after Paris, LVMH's fashion division is falling again, and the houses with new designers are not the reason
Fashion and leather goods fell 5% in the third quarter, one quarter after its first growth in almost two years. Dior held flat, Celine and Loro Piana grew, and the problem has a name on the door: Louis Vuitton in China.
Runway · October 6, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Blazy turns Chanel into a wardrobe that changes shape, and Lantink builds a cleverer Gaultier that forgot to have fun
Paris asked whether its big houses had noticed the season's turn toward clothes people wear. On Monday night Chanel answered yes. On Sunday Jean Paul Gaultier answered with construction, and left the joy at the door.
Fashion Weeks · October 2, 2026 · Célia Megias
Carven's new start finally looks like Carven, and Piccioli puts couture into a pair of jeans at Balenciaga
Kai Nesselrath, a decade at Saint Laurent behind him, made the season's second Paris debut with clothes people can wear. That afternoon, Pierpaolo Piccioli argued that couture is a method, not a category.
Runway · October 1, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Drew Henry breaks out of Courrèges' white box, and Antonin Tron takes Balmain to Death Valley
Wednesday's debut was a new designer loosening a house known for rigour. Wednesday's second season was a designer from last year tightening his grip. Both worked, and both left one thing unresolved.
Runway · September 30, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Dior in soft focus, Saint Laurent in solid gold: Paris's second day, and two very different ideas of patience
Jonathan Anderson built his spring collection around a walnut that takes fifty years to polish. Anthony Vaccarello marked ten years at Saint Laurent by gilding the archive from head to toe. One asked for time, the other summed it up.
Houses · September 29, 2026 · Célia Megias
Dior names Shanghai for its next cruise show before anyone else has named anything, and the date is the message
Jonathan Anderson will show Cruise 2028 in Shanghai on May 14, 2027, seventeen years after the house last staged a major show there. Dior is the first big French house to say where its next cruise goes, and it said so the week before its Paris show.
Fashion Weeks · September 28, 2026 · Célia Megias
Milan closes: Silvana Armani's first collection, Demna builds a Gucci store on the runway, and Moschino's debut takes to a car park roof
The Spring/Summer 2027 week ended with one inheritance, one second season and one real debut. All three houses were answering the same question: what is left of a name once the person who made it is gone.
Fashion Weeks · September 27, 2026 · Célia Megias
Paris opens tomorrow: two debuts, the houses coming home, and the week's real tests in their second seasons
Spring/Summer 2027 runs from September 28 to October 6. Courrèges and Carven have new designers, Valentino and Margiela are back on the calendar, and Blazy, Tron and Lantink have to show that their first collections were not a one-off.
Runway · September 26, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Milan's first days: Prada on the skirt, Chiuri's second Fendi, and Glenn Martens says goodbye to Diesel with 200 performers
The Spring/Summer 2027 week runs 60 shows from September 22 to 28. Its opening days were about houses in their second season and a designer leaving, more than about anyone arriving.
Business · September 25, 2026 · Célia Megias
SILMO opens the Paris season three days before the runways, and this year the frame on the stand has a camera in it
The eyewear trade fair brings 950 exhibitors and more than 1,500 brands to Villepinte from September 25 to 28. Its program opens on smart glasses and closes on training opticians to sell them, which says a lot about where fashion's most dependable licensing category is heading.
Fashion Weeks · September 21, 2026 · Célia Megias
London gets McQueen back after more than twenty years in Paris, and Mulberry returns with Christopher Kane
The Spring/Summer 2027 week closed on September 21 with two homecomings and a Burberry show built with Celia Birtwell. For a city that has spent a decade losing its big names to Paris, the direction of travel changed.
Runway · September 11, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Diane von Furstenberg comes back to New York after nine years, with the first designer from outside the house
Henry Zankov opened the Spring 2027 week on the High Line with a collection that started from colour and let print follow. It was also the first New York season run under the CFDA's ban on real fur.
Business · August 14, 2026 · Célia Megias
Paris runs its showroom for seven days and its shows for nine, and the showroom is where the orders happen
While 101 houses fill the Spring/Summer 2027 runway calendar, the Fédération runs Sphere at the Palais de Tokyo from September 30 to October 6. It is the least photographed part of Paris Fashion Week and the part that decides who is still here in three seasons.
Couture · August 13, 2026 · Célia Megias
Couture is a business with about four thousand customers, and it is not supposed to make money
Estimates put the active haute couture clientele at roughly 4,000 to 5,000 people worldwide, down from around 20,000 after the New Look. Pieces run from €30,000 to well past €500,000 and the tier still rarely pays for itself, which is the whole point of it.
Resale · August 11, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Rolex certifies secondhand watches now, and that is a more radical act than any of the fashion resale launches
Gucci refurbishes and resells its own vintage, Balenciaga, Valentino and Burberry work through partners, and Rolex guarantees a watch it did not sell you. Only one of those is a claim of authority over the resale market rather than a slice of it.
Fashion Weeks · August 10, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Barcelona moved its fashion week from a modernista hospital to a working port, and the venue is the argument
The 37th edition of 080 left Sant Pau for Port Vell in April with 26 brands. The 38th is due in October, applications are open and the dates are not out, which tells you what kind of fashion week this is.
Resale · August 8, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Europe is about to hand every garment a birth certificate, and resale platforms should be worried
The Digital Product Passport must stay readable through resale and end-of-life. That is a line in an environmental regulation and it is also, accidentally, an attack on the one thing the resale platforms own.
Fashion Weeks · August 6, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Milan's schedule lists two ministries before it lists a designer, and that is the point
Spring/Summer 2027 runs September 22 to 28 with 60 shows, 54 of them in person. Camera Moda opens the week with a new Fashion Hub at Palazzo Morando and closes it with Giorgio Armani, and the state is in the credits of both.
Couture · August 5, 2026 · Célia Megias
Haute couture is a protected label with a waiting list, and most of the houses showing cannot use the words
The Chambre Syndicale runs three tiers: haute couture members, correspondents, and guests. Guests may call their work couture and are barred from calling it haute couture, and they wait two years before the appellation is even on the table.
Sustainability · August 4, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Every garment sold in Europe will carry a data file, and the first draft of what goes in it landed in May
The Digital Product Passport was written into the Ecodesign regulation in June 2024. The delegated act for textiles is indicated for 2027 and cannot bite for eighteen months after that, which puts real compliance in 2028 and makes the specification published this May the thing to read now.
Fashion Weeks · August 2, 2026 · Célia Megias
New York put seven Fashion Fund names on the official calendar, and that is the whole strategy
The Spring/Summer 2027 schedule runs September 10 to 15 with around 70 shows and presentations. It opens with Henry Zankov's debut at Diane von Furstenberg and closes with Thom Browne, and in between it does something Paris and Milan structurally cannot.
Sustainability · July 31, 2026 · Mimi Duch
France wrote a law that charges by the garment, and it was careful to exclude Zara
Parliament passed the ultra-fast-fashion bill on June 29 after more than two years between the two chambers. Per-item penalties start at €0.25 and are set to climb toward €10 by 2030, alongside an advertising ban that reaches influencers.
Fashion Weeks · July 29, 2026 · Célia Megias
Paris has 68 shows and two new names to make its case for a calendar under strain
The Spring/Summer 2027 schedule runs September 28 to October 6, with debuts from Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, Valentino and Margiela back, and McQueen gone to London. The season the reset has to start paying for itself.
Business · July 27, 2026 · Mimi Duch
LVMH's fashion division grew for the first time in seven quarters, by one percent
First-half sales of €38.6 billion, a 3% second quarter, and a fashion and leather goods business still down 5% across the half. Kering posted its first positive quarter in three years. The recovery is real and it is thin.
Houses · July 24, 2026 · Célia Megias
A results statement credited one designer by name. That is new.
Jonathan Anderson took all of Dior in 2025 and by July 2026 LVMH was attributing part of its first fashion growth in seven quarters to his effect. What it takes to move an €18 billion division, and what the credit actually proves.
Fashion Weeks · July 16, 2026 · Célia Megias
New York moved its dates, and that tells you the four fashion weeks are now one calendar
NYFW ran February 11 to 16, London 19 to 23, Milan 24 to March 2, Paris closing on October 6 in September. Four cities, four organizing bodies, no shared authority, and a sequence being managed as a single product anyway.
Couture · July 13, 2026 · Célia Megias
Thirty houses, two first collections, and a couture week that was mostly about succession
Paris haute couture ran July 6 to 9 with Pierpaolo Piccioli's Balenciaga debut and Duran Lantink's at Jean Paul Gaultier, alongside second outings from Blazy and Anderson. The clothes were sculptural. The subject was handover.
Couture · July 10, 2026 · Nar Cissa
Piccioli brought ruffles and whole looks of feathers to a house built on severity
His first Balenciaga couture, shown in the July week, answered the question everyone had about the appointment: he was not going to imitate what the house had been for the previous decade.
Sustainability · July 6, 2026 · Célia Megias
New York bans fur from its runways in September, and the ban is not the interesting part
The CFDA rule covers all official runways and calendar-listed shows from the Spring/Summer 2027 season. What matters is the mechanism: fashion weeks have started using schedule access as regulation.
Resale · June 24, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Resale platforms are not competing on inventory. They are competing on proof.
AI-driven verification and blockchain provenance are where the money is going in secondhand luxury, because in a market of unique used objects the only defensible asset is being believed.
Business · June 15, 2026 · Mimi Duch
The luxury recovery is real, arriving unevenly, and being reported as one thing
Europe slowing while the US and Asia lift. Two to five percent growth received as good news. A rebound that keeps getting a reality check, and a sector that has quietly redefined what normal looks like.
Resale · May 20, 2026 · Mimi Duch
Resale will pass $41 billion this year, growing three times faster than the houses it resells
From $37.95 billion in 2025 to $41.61 billion in 2026, on the way to a projected $60 billion by 2030. Handbags are 40% of it, and 62% of buyers give sustainability as their reason.
Fashion Weeks · March 5, 2026 · Célia Megias
Milan got both of its biggest debuts in the same six days
Demna's first Gucci runway show and Maria Grazia Chiuri's first Fendi collection landed inside one week, February 24 to March 2. A city that had been losing ground got handed the two most-watched shows of the season.
Runway · March 2, 2026 · Nar Cissa
La Famiglia was a cast list, not a collection, and that was the point
Demna's first Gucci built each look as a character in the house's family tree, re-proportioned the Bamboo 1947 and put the Horsebit loafer with sheer hosiery. The reviews were warm. The forums were not.
Sustainability · February 10, 2026 · Célia Megias
Copenhagen turned twenty and made its rules harder, in a year when everyone else softened theirs
Nineteen documented minimum standards, at least 60% certified, recycled or deadstock materials, virgin fur and wild animal skins banned. Miss them and you are not on the schedule. It is the only sustainability regime in fashion with a real penalty.
Houses · January 22, 2026 · Célia Megias
Eight houses changed designer in eighteen months. Nobody planned that.
Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Celine, Maison Margiela, Fendi, Bottega Veneta. Fifteen debuts in the Spring/Summer 2026 season alone. A map of the largest creative reset in modern luxury, and why it happened all at once.

2025

5 pieces

Houses · December 16, 2025 · Célia Megias
Dario Vitale's Versace lasted one collection, and the collection was good
His September debut in Milan was received as a triumph. He left on December 12, ten days after Prada Group closed its acquisition. Reception had nothing to do with it.
Business · December 8, 2025 · Mimi Duch
Prada closed on Versace for about €1.25 billion, and now owns the problem it wanted
The acquisition from Capri Holdings completed in early December after signing in April, with a relaunch plan running to 2030. An Italian group buying an Italian house is rarer than it should be.
Fashion Weeks · October 12, 2025 · Célia Megias
Fifteen debuts in one season, and most of them in Paris in the same week
Spring/Summer 2026 was the most consequential fashion month in decades: Anderson's first Dior womenswear on October 1, Blazy's Chanel days later, and a schedule where almost every marquee slot belonged to someone new.
Runway · October 9, 2025 · Nar Cissa
Blazy hung planets in the Grand Palais and got the first standing ovation Chanel has needed in forty years
His debut ready-to-wear was described as the first real break at the house in more than four decades. Whether the Chanel customer wants a break is the question the ovation could not answer.
Runway · October 3, 2025 · Nar Cissa
Anderson cropped the Bar jacket and cut the New Look to a mini, and the internet split in half
His first Dior womenswear, October 1, got a standing ovation in the room and a genuine fight everywhere else. The most hyped and most polarizing show of the year, which is exactly what a debut should produce.