Tuesday, October 27, 2026 / Spring/Summer 2027 season
The collections, the houses, and the business behind them
Section
The collections, the debuts, and what the clothes are actually arguing for.
RunwayParis asked whether its big houses had noticed the season's turn toward clothes people wear. On Monday night Chanel answered yes. On Sunday Jean Paul Gaultier answered with construction, and left the joy at the door.
RunwayWednesday's debut was a new designer loosening a house known for rigour. Wednesday's second season was a designer from last year tightening his grip. Both worked, and both left one thing unresolved.
RunwayJonathan Anderson built his spring collection around a walnut that takes fifty years to polish. Anthony Vaccarello marked ten years at Saint Laurent by gilding the archive from head to toe. One asked for time, the other summed it up.
RunwayThe Spring/Summer 2027 week runs 60 shows from September 22 to 28. Its opening days were about houses in their second season and a designer leaving, more than about anyone arriving.
RunwayHenry Zankov opened the Spring 2027 week on the High Line with a collection that started from colour and let print follow. It was also the first New York season run under the CFDA's ban on real fur.
RunwayDemna's first Gucci built each look as a character in the house's family tree, re-proportioned the Bamboo 1947 and put the Horsebit loafer with sheer hosiery. The reviews were warm. The forums were not.
RunwayHis debut ready-to-wear was described as the first real break at the house in more than four decades. Whether the Chanel customer wants a break is the question the ovation could not answer.
RunwayHis first Dior womenswear, October 1, got a standing ovation in the room and a genuine fight everywhere else. The most hyped and most polarizing show of the year, which is exactly what a debut should produce.