Milan's first days: Prada on the skirt, Chiuri's second Fendi, and Glenn Martens says goodbye to Diesel with 200 performers

The Spring/Summer 2027 week runs 60 shows from September 22 to 28. Its opening days were about houses in their second season and a designer leaving, more than about anyone arriving.

By Nar Cissa·September 26, 2026·2 min read

Milan's Spring/Summer 2027 women's week opened on Tuesday, September 22 and runs to the 28th, with 60 shows, 54 of them in person. Its schedule was short on debuts. The first three days confirmed that: this was a week about second seasons and one exit.

Prada: the whole collection on one garment

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons built their collection around a single piece, the skirt, reworked in its materials and in what it was paired with. It is a familiar Prada move and a useful one: take the most ordinary item in the wardrobe and show how much of an outfit's meaning it carries.

Fendi: Chiuri's second season

Maria Grazia Chiuri showed her second Fendi collection on September 23, after her debut in February. MVC Magazine described a collection titled Smokeshow that began in lingerie, with lace, embroidery and pastels, and built into bolder, theatrical looks inspired by Raffaella Carrà.

The second collection is the one that tells you whether a designer has a direction for a house or only an opening statement. A lingerie-to-showgirl arc with an Italian television icon as its reference is a clear direction, and a long way from the Roman restraint Fendi has sold for years.

Diesel: Martens' last show

Glenn Martens closed his time at Diesel on the first day with a farewell show that ended in a performance involving 200 performers. Martens turned Diesel from a denim brand with a past into one of Milan's most talked-about shows, and his exit leaves the house, and the Milan calendar, without one of its more reliable sources of energy.

The rest of the opening days

Jil Sander: Simone Bellotti worked fragility and vulnerability into the house's best-known silhouettes.
MM6 Maison Margiela showed a collaboration with Havaianas.
Max Mara drew on female explorers, from Freya Stark and Osa Johnson to Amelia Earhart and Beryl Markham.

Gucci, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta were still to show in the week's second half. Moschino is the one real debut: Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, who came from Sunnei, present their first collection for the house.

Show descriptions from MVC Magazine (September 24, 2026). Show count and the Moschino and Diesel appointments per Design Scene and Lifestyle Asia. Schedule per Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

Diane von Furstenberg comes back to New York after nine years, with the first designer from outside the house

Henry Zankov opened the Spring 2027 week on the High Line with a collection that started from colour and let print follow. It was also the first New York season run under the CFDA's ban on real fur.

Nar Cissa / September 11, 2026 / 2 min

Runway

La Famiglia was a cast list, not a collection, and that was the point

Demna's first Gucci built each look as a character in the house's family tree, re-proportioned the Bamboo 1947 and put the Horsebit loafer with sheer hosiery. The reviews were warm. The forums were not.

Nar Cissa / March 2, 2026 / 3 min

Runway

Blazy hung planets in the Grand Palais and got the first standing ovation Chanel has needed in forty years

His debut ready-to-wear was described as the first real break at the house in more than four decades. Whether the Chanel customer wants a break is the question the ovation could not answer.

Nar Cissa / October 9, 2025 / 3 min