Milan's Spring/Summer 2027 week is over. Its first days were about second seasons and Glenn Martens leaving Diesel. The second half had more to say, and most of it was about succession: a niece taking over her uncle's house, a designer finishing the job of rewriting Gucci, and two outsiders deciding what Moschino should be after Franco Moschino, Jeremy Scott and Adrian Appiolaza.

Armani: the first collection without Giorgio

Silvana Armani closed the week on Sunday, September 27, at the Teatro Armani, with her first collection at the head of the house's womenswear, as reported by theFashionSpot. She is the niece of the late Giorgio Armani, and the collection was titled Evolution.

The word is well chosen. She worked in long, fluid tailoring, sharp shoulders, geometric motifs and fabrics with a low shine, in ecru, black and gold, with echoes of the 1980s. The National's Sarah Maisey called it "unmistakably Armani, yet distinctly updated", and described sequinned jackets and sheer floor-length dresses as a more relaxed take on familiar codes.

That is the right first move for this house. Armani has never sold surprise. It sells the reassurance that a jacket will look the way an Armani jacket looks, and a successor who broke that in her first season would have been breaking the business. The test is not this collection. It is whether, three seasons from now, Evolution has turned into a point of view of her own.

Gucci: Demna shows the shop before he opens it

Demna showed his second Gucci collection on September 25 at the Allianz MiCo, inside a constructed Gucci store with marble, stone frescoes, classical statuary and velvet banquettes, as reported by Jack Moss in Wallpaper. The set was a preview of the house's new store concept, which starts with the renovated Avenue Montaigne flagship in Paris in late October, according to the same report.

He called the collection "broken bourgeoisie" and went back past the Tom Ford years to the house's equestrian roots: riding jackets, double-breasted coats, layered polos and horse-bit hardware at every scale, from a collar detail to an oversized jacket fastening. Tom Ford's Gucci came later in the show, in low-waisted pencil skirts and strong-shouldered blazers, as reported by The Zoe Report.

A runway that doubles as a store mock-up is an unusually honest piece of staging. After his debut in February, Demna is telling buyers exactly where these clothes will hang and what the room will feel like. Gucci's problem lately has been sales, not attention, and this was a show built for the people who place orders.

Moschino: the debut, on a car park roof

Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the founders of Sunnei, showed their first Moschino collection on Friday, September 25, on top of a garage overlooking the Unipol Arena, as reported by Milano Fashion World, citing MilanoFinanza. More than 400 friends, photographers and editors walked the runway alongside the models, according to The National.

The clothes were calmer than the format. Graffiti prints, raffia-fringed Bermuda shorts, tasselled leather trousers and a lacquered cat-shaped clutch carried the house's sense of humour, but without the visual puns of the Jeremy Scott years. The duo told the press they want fashion "to be part of real life". The last look was a sweater that read "Good luck".

That restraint will divide people. Vanity Teen called the collection "delightfully eccentric but for real people". Others will see one more colourful, contemporary collection in a city that has plenty. For a house that has changed creative directors more than once since Jeremy Scott left in 2023, a debut that people can actually wear is not a small thing.

The rest of the second half

  • Bottega Veneta: Louise Trotter loosened up on September 26, with lighter leather, open intrecciato, Venetian lace and crochet, and fringe on bubble skirts and an outsized straw bag. "We're a house of craft," she told reporters, as reported by The Impression.
  • Dolce & Gabbana went to Sicily, with antique lace bloomers and embroidered denim.
  • Marni: Meryll Rogge worked in exposed details and deliberately interrupted embroidery.
  • Roberto Cavalli: Fausto Puglisi went back to the archive's animal prints and velvet.

What Milan leaves for Paris

Milan did not produce a shock this season, and it did not need one. It produced three different answers to the problem every heritage house now has: keep the founder's codes (Armani), rebuild the house around a store (Gucci), or keep only the founder's attitude (Moschino). Paris, which opened today, has the same question waiting in Courrèges and Carven.

Armani show details per theFashionSpot (Mark Eglon, September 27, 2026) and The National (Sarah Maisey, September 28, 2026). Gucci per Wallpaper (Jack Moss, September 25, 2026) and The Zoe Report. Moschino per Milano Fashion World (September 25, 2026), The National and Vanity Teen. Bottega Veneta per The Impression.